Shine Theory for Climbers: In Praise of the Lady Crew

July 23, 2018 by Sarah Anne Perry in Musings

In October of 2013, I attended the Online News Association national conference in Atlanta, Georgia. I had been bouldering for six months, and that budding fixation was matched only by my professional obsession with journalism. I learned a lot on that trip — namely, that I didn’t want to pursue a fast-paced career in digital journalism.

I had a lot of fun, though. There were drone showings, Google Glass demos, and Twitter debates over such lofty topics as the pronunciation of “gif.” (It does, proclaimed the alleged “creators of the gif,” sound like the peanut butter.)

What I remember best, however, is Ann Friedman’s keynote speech. Ann is a well-known journalist, public speaker, and pie chart philosopher who writes about gender, media, politics, and culture. Three days after I first entered a climbing gym, Ann published her first Shine Theory oeuvre in New York Magazine’s The Cut.

3 Sports Bras for Lady Climbers

July 08, 2018 by Sarah Anne Perry in Reviews

I'm not interested in reviewing most gear.

I mean, I definitely have my favorite rope, shoes, harness, and quickdraws. I have strong opinions about that stuff, and I'm happy to share them if you want to reach out.

But there is no dearth of bloggers reviewing the aluminum tidbits and nylon miscellanea we use every day at the crag. I want to talk about…

Bras. Skincare. Dirtbarbie hair hacks. No climber worth listening to says we can't be strong and fabulous, and I've done a lot of research in this field.

So. Look this way for pink-hued product reviews. First up: my top three climbing sports bras.

Fear: Don't Overthink It

July 05, 2018 by Sarah Anne Perry in Musings

The first time Tom belayed me, I cried.

We were in Potrero Chico, and I was attempting a 5.11d arête that several of our students had raved about earlier in the day.

My second day roping up with The Climbing Academy had gotten off to a chossy start. I’d volunteered to set up a top-rope for an injured student, then followed the wrong bolt line. Soon, what had begun as a 5.10 warmup became a scarily runout 5.12 off-width.

I was by no stretch of the imagination a 5.12 off-width climber. Attempting a desperate double gaston and an optimistic high foot smear, far above and left of my last bolt, I felt limestone crumble beneath my fingers.

(Re-)Introductions

July 03, 2018 by Sarah Anne Perry in Musings

Is this awkward?

Sure, we've changed. Maybe we're not where we thought we would be, doing what we imagined. Maybe our high school selves wouldn't recognize the new us. We might not know what to say to each other, or how to feel about ourselves.

But don't overthink it. We don't have to explain anything. We have nothing to prove. We've just got stories to tell, questions to ask, plans to make, and dreams to follow.

So. I know it's been a while, but I'm happy to see you.